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Kniha: Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life – William Finnegan

Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life
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Kniha: Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life
Autor: William Finnegan

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful ... (celý popis)
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Specifikace
Nakladatelství: Little Brown
Médium / forma: Tištěná kniha
Rok vydání: 2016-05-31
Počet stran: 500
Rozměr: 197 x 125 x 32 mm
Jazyk: anglicky
Vazba: Paperback
ISBN: 978-1-4721-5141-4
EAN: 9781472151414
Popis

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

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